Kantha: Weaving Heritage into Every Stitch

Kantha: Weaving Heritage into Every Stitch

Decoding Sustainability

Kantha: Weaving Heritage into Every Stitch

Kantha: Weaving Heritage into Every Stitch

October 13, 2024

October 13, 2024

Prerna Pathak

Prerna Pathak

Kantha, one of the oldest forms of embroidery, is deeply rooted in the cultural heritage of Bengal. Originating from the rural communities of West Bengal and Bangladesh, this  stitch has traveled generations, evolving from simple quilting techniques into a global fashion statement. Today, Kantha stitch is a symbol of sustainability and craftsmanship, blending traditional methods with modern design aesthetics.

The term "Kantha" is derived from the Sanskrit word "kontha," meaning rags. Traditionally, Kantha was a form of upcycling practiced by rural women who would reuse old, worn-out saris and dhotis, layering them to create quilts, blankets, and covers. Using a simple running stitch, they embroidered beautiful motifs, ranging from flora and fauna to geometric patterns, telling stories of daily life, mythological tales, and folklore through their needlework.

Kantha embroidery was more than just a functional craft; it became an art form that passed down from mother to daughter. Each piece carried with it the personal touch of the maker, making every Kantha product unique and reflective of its creator's life experiences.

Sustainability of Kantha

Kantha has always been sustainable, long before the term became a buzzword in the fashion industry. The practice of upcycling old fabrics is eco-friendly, minimizing textile waste. Moreover, the technique requires minimal resources—just thread and cloth—making it a low-impact form of embroidery. Today, many global brands are promoting sustainable fashion, and Kantha fits perfectly into this narrative.

Brands such as Anthropologie and Péro have used Kantha stitching in their collections, emphasizing both the beauty of the craft and its eco-friendly origins. These brands collaborate with rural artisans, to give Kantha a global platform, and ensure that it continues to thrive in modern times while supporting ethical, sustainable fashion.

Major Areas Where Kantha is Practiced

Kantha stitch is primarily practiced in the Indian states of West Bengal, Odisha, and parts of Bihar and Jharkhand, as well as in Bangladesh. However, it is West Bengal, especially the rural districts of Murshidabad, Birbhum, and Nadia, that have  become synonymous with Kantha embroidery. The women of these regions have perfected the craft over centuries, creating designs that have gained national and international recognition.

In Bangladesh, Kantha work is centered around the Rajshahi and Jessore districts, where it has been elevated to a fine art form.

Kantha in Modern Times

Kantha has evolved from its humble origins into a popular feature in fashion, home décor, and textiles. In modern times, designers and brands have incorporated Kantha stitching into high fashion, giving this traditional art a global platform. Once limited to quilts and sarees, Kantha can now be found on dresses, jackets, bags, and even shoes, making it an integral part of contemporary fashion.

One of the key reasons for Kantha’s revival is its sustainable nature. As the world turns toward conscious fashion, Kantha stitching offers a model of slow fashion. The craft is inherently sustainable as it involves recycling old fabrics, reducing waste, and emphasizing handcraft over mass production. Modern designers are working closely with artisans, ensuring that traditional crafts remain relevant while creating new employment opportunities for rural women.

Statement Pieces with Kantha

What makes Kantha so versatile is its adaptability. Whether used in traditional saris, blankets or modern dresses, Kantha can transform everyday items into statement pieces. The running stitch, though simple, creates textures that add depth to the fabric. It can take an ordinary cotton scarf and turn it into a high-fashion accessory, or elevate a plain jacket into an eye-catching, one-of-a-kind piece.

Luxury brands and designers have increasingly recognized the potential of Kantha to create statement pieces. Sabyasachi Mukherjee, for instance, has incorporated Kantha stitching into his collections, using it to add rich detailing to his high-end couture. Anita Dongre, known for her commitment to sustainability, also works with rural artisans, bringing traditional techniques like Kantha into modern designs, from dresses to blouses.

Conclusion

Kantha stitch is more than just a traditional craft. As global fashion increasingly prioritizes sustainability, Kantha is finding its rightful place on the world stage. By supporting Kantha, we not only preserve an ancient art form but also promote a future where fashion is kinder to the environment.